There are a lot of benefits to buying vintage. There’s the price—an older piece will often cost you a lot less than buying new—and there’s the exclusivity of finding a piece that no one else will have. Not to mention, the sheer enjoyment from the search and the satisfying thrill of discovery when you stumble upon something truly extraordinary. And men have the benefit of dressing in vintage pieces without looking costumey. After all, the best way to dress like the icons of the past we admire so much is to cultivate a wardrobe of modern pieces and timeless classics from those eras that most inspire you.

But thrifting, as the kids say, can be a bit daunting if you’re not used to the process. We caught up with Cale Margol of Gap’s Los Angeles-based 1969 denim design studio for some trade secrets. As the head merchant in charge of product development, he’s constantly on the look out for inspiration and has become an expert at unearthing second-hand sartorial treasures from vintage shops, flea markets, eBay and Goodwill.

Find more secrets here.